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Pierre Cardin

Pierre Cardin

The 1960s saw a revolution in the production and distribution of menswear following a pattern similar to the woman's ready to wear industry. From now on, menswear word, like a womenswear, be focused on either a label or a designer name with new collections presented each year.

Pioneering a new system of licensing agreements between designers and ready to wear manufacturers was Pierre Cardin. Born in Italy in 1920 Pierre Cardin served his apprenticeship as a tailor and have worked briefly for Paquin before joining the newly founded house of Dior in 1947. Three years later Cardin started his own company, initially specialising in film and theatre costumes: Cardin had made the magnificent costumes for John Cocteau's Beauty and the Beast. In 1953 Cardin presented his first haute couture collection of womenswear and opened his first shop, Eve, which was joined in 1957 by - naturally enough -- Adam, a boutique of clothing and accessories for men. Two years later, Cardin was banished from the couture creation list of the Federation Francais de la Couture for daring to present a collection of Pierre Cardin t-shirtswoman's ready to wear garments. He was to be swiftly reinstated after his example was widely copied by other couturiers who had realised that the shrinking number of clients who were sufficiently wealthy to buy couture was not enough to keep their business afloat.

In 1960 Cardin extended the designer label ready to wear strategy to menswear and launched his first collection. The style is sometimes known as the youth line owed a great deal, in fact, to the existing English style, with its close fitted silhouette: jackets were narrow shouldered and fitted at the waist and has high sleeve holes while trousers were high waisted and flat fronted, with no pleats. Instead of hiring the usual actors and professional models to show his clothes, Cardin employed students, a measure that was in itself enough to rouse the interests of the press. What the assembled commentators saw were a small, collarless and tail less jackets in corduroy for winter and striped cotton for some, that the Beatles would make famous the world over. Following the success of the show, the next year Brill, the garment manufacturer, brought out the first complete line of men's ready to wear clothing signed by Pierre Cardin and, for the first time, ready-made suits had a recognisable line and a recognised designer name attached to them. But although they were ready to wear Cardin’s suits were still out of the reach of most men's pockets and it would be another three years before his financial success was assured.